WBL Seed Library: Seed packaging Feb 28th, 1-4 pm

Hello Gardeners

Seed Packaging

I’ve scheduled another seed packaging event for Saturday, February 28^th, from 1-4 pm at the White Bear Lake library (Lion’s Den conference room).

It’s a great opportunity to meet your fellow gardeners and to help the seed library. Packaging seeds is easy and fun. No experience necessary!

At this event bring all your questions about seed starting. If I can’t answer your question there will be other long time seed starting gardeners available who can help you. If you’re new to seed starting below is some basic steps to get you started.

The native plant seed drawers are stuffed full! Thanks to several wonderful gardeners who donated seeds. Not only were many species of seeds I normally have replenished, there are several brand new varieties you might be interested in. Consider trying Angelica, Great Indian Plantain, Eastern Star Sedge, Prairie Smoke, Hairy Golden Aster, Silky Aster and several native plant seed mixtures.

Seed Starting Basics

There are 3 things a seed needs to germinate: water, sunlight and someplace to set down roots. If you provide these 3 basics, you’ll probably have a successful seed starting adventure. But before you place the first seed you need to do a little preparation. Nothing is worse than being all excited about starting seeds to find you don’t have all the supplies needed and have to interrupt that enthusiasm to buy or find supplies.

Basic Supplies:

Seeds, Water, Soil-less medium, Containers and trays, Light source, Location to grow

Seeds – find at the WBL seed library, garden centers, dollar stores, grocery stores, online seed catalogs, etc. Make sure the seed package has a date on it. Older seeds have a lower germination rate. If you find really cheap seeds online be careful. Check the date and reviews of the company. There’s nothing worse than trying to start seeds that end up not germinating.

Water – Seeds need damp soil not soaking soil. Too much water could increase mold issues.

Soil-less medium – meaning not your backyard soil as it’s too heavy or too sandy and could be full of pathogens. Buy a bag of seed starting or potting mix. Try to find some with the least amount of peatmoss as that is a not an easy renewable resource. Coir is an option, but I found it needs to be mixed with regular potting soil as it doesn’t have enough nutrients.

Containers and trays – there are hundreds of variations of containers and trays for many different prices. All have pluses and minuses which are too numerous to list in this email. The cheapest route is to reuse plastic food container you punched drain holes in. I’ll bring some options I use to the seed packaging this Saturday.

Light source – No, a south facing window won’t be enough to produce quality seedlings. Minnesota does not have long enough or reliable sunlight to satisfy most seedling needs of 12-14 hours of light per day. There are hundreds of both led and fluorescent lights available. Again, too many options to list here, but I’ll talk about what I use on Saturday.

Location – Seeds usually need a 24 hour warm place to grow. Starting them in an unheated porch is risky in Minnesota as there are still many weeks of temperature below freezing. Basements may not even have enough warmth. Placing trays of tiny seedlings where pets or children play is likely not going to end well for your seedlings. For example, my cats love to nip off 1-2” seedlings, decide they don’t like them and let them lay on the soil. Argh! (I’ve now placed a wire fence around my seedlings with holes too small for furry paws.)

When to start seeds – Read the back of the package to determine when is the ideal time to start seeds. Most peppers it is 6-8 weeks before last date of frost. Tomatoes are 4-6 weeks. In zone 4 (Twin Cities area) the average date of last frost is May 10^th.

Depending on the seed variety, you may need to start these seeds anywhere from 14 weeks to 4 weeks before the average last frost date. The reason these plants need to have their seeds started early is that they need a longer growing season then our typical Minnesota growing season which is from the last spring frost to the first fall frost.

BUT that doesn’t mean you can put outside your tomatoes and peppers on May 11^th! First off, that is just an average. More importantly, both tomatoes and peppers don’t do well if the temperature at any point goes below 50 degrees. Especially, young plants.

So, it is likely you will still be growing these seedlings inside for longer. Keep in mind you may have to transplant them to larger pots before planting them outside. The longer they have to grow inside, the leggier they will be. You want strong compact plants, not tall, skinny plants.

One more thing – don’t forget to gradually acclimate your seedlings to the outdoors before planting. This involves bringing them outside for increasing lengths over a week or two.

Native Seed Starting – There’s Still Time!

The seed drawers at the seed library are bursting with native plant seeds! My last count had over 400 seed packets to choose from. There’s still time to stratify your native seeds. An easy and fun way to start native seeds is using the winter sowing method. See below for directions.

Winter Sowing

Most native plants produce a flower which, if pollinated, will make a seed head or pod. Late in the fall collect the seed pods and allow to thoroughly dry. Remove the seeds before placing in paper envelopes or paper bags. Store in a cool, dry location. It is important seeds are dry before storing to prevent mold. Most native seeds require a moist cold period of time called stratification before they will germinate.

Germination Methods

Many native plant seeds have a dormancy mechanism that helps them to germinate at an optimal time. This prevents them from germinating right before winter or during a drought.

Easiest Methods: The easiest way to grow native plant seeds is to plant them in the late fall and let them go through the winter where they will sprout in the spring. Another way is to do snow sowing, used mostly for large sites. Prepare the site for planting in the fall. During the winter, scatter the seeds on top of the snow above the prepared site. As the snow melts in spring, the seeds will sink and germinate on the soil surface.

Winter Sowing Method

1. In late fall or early winter, prepare containers for growing seeds. Take a clean one gallon clear or semi-clear plastic container (such as a milk or water bottle) and poke holes in bottom and all over the sides and top of the container. Be generous with your holes. This is needed so water can get into and out of the container. Remove lid so that water can also get in through the top.

2. Cut 7/8 ways around the diameter about 6” from the bottom. Leave the top part attached by a small piece of plastic as the ‘hinge’. You are making a little greenhouse.

3. Turn the container over and label the bottom of the container with a permanent marker with the type of seed you are planting. Labelling the bottom prevents fading of the marker due to sun and rain. Yes, even permanent markers will fade in the sun, rain and snow.

4. Fill bottom of the container with at least 4” of potting soil. Use any kind, but don’t use soil from your garden as it is too heavy in texture and may have diseases.

5. Plant seeds in the soil to the depth stated on package. A good rule of thumb is to plant seeds to the depth of 2 ½ the diameter of the seed. Some seeds need light to germinate, which means don’t cover them, just sprinkle on the top of the soil.

6. Water until moist.

7. Replace top part of container and close with a piece of duct tape on the corner opposite the hinge. You just need one piece of tape to hold the lid in place so critters can’t get in to rummage around in your soil. Do not tape the entire sides. It is not necessary and some water will get in through the sides, which is a good thing.

8. Place containers outside in a sunny location. Yes, you put them outside in the winter in the cold. The seeds need a period of cold moist stratification before they will germinate. If you have persistent critters you may need to secure your mini-greenhouses so they don’t cart them off or play with them.

9. No need to do anything with the containers until spring. Check containers periodically to make sure they are still moist. Start checking containers as early as March. Things heat up quite a bit inside these little greenhouses on sunny days. There may still be snow on the ground, but it could be warm enough inside them to cause the soil to be dry. Remember seeds need moisture to germinate. You may have to open the tops on very warm days or when seedlings outgrow the container.

10. Transplant seedlings in the spring to your garden. No need to harden off seedlings as they have been growing outside all the time!

Moist Sand or Coffee Filter Method

You need to simulate winter by placing the seeds in moist sand or between a folded moist coffee filter and storing in the refrigerator for a set number of days before starting inside. Find the number of days to stratify on online or catalog sources.

Place a handful of moist fine sand in a plastic bag. Add seeds and mix. Or moisten a coffee filter and place seeds on filter and fold in half. Place filter in plastic bag. Label bag and place in refrigerator for the required number of days needed to stratify. Check bag occasionally and add water to keep moist. After appropriate number of days has gone by, place sand and seeds in potting soil medium in flats or pots and grow as you would other seeds.

Resources:

Prairie Moon Nursery: https://www.prairiemoon.com/

White Bear Lake Seed Library blog site: www.wblseedlibrary.blogspot.com

Any questions, email me at: wblseedlibrary@gmail.com

Seed Packaging

If you didn’t make it to the in person event Saturday and would like to package seeds at home, send me an email and I will make up a bag of seeds and supplies you can pick up at the library.

Email: wblseedlibrary@gmail.com

Native Plant List

I have updated the online list of native plant seeds at the library. Note that this is a constantly changing list and was only accurate at the date listed at the top of the document.

You can access at: native plant list

An Act Locally Opportunity!

I want to make a request for locally grown tomato, lettuce, bean or pea seeds you harvested from your garden. Though the seed library gets donations of commercial seed packets, I especially like getting locally grown seeds. These locally grown seeds have started adapting to our local environment and in time will grow better than produce, flowers and seeds from plants grown elsewhere in the country.

Pam

Local Greenhouses and Nurseries

As a request from our volunteers, I am adding a list of various local greenhouses or garden centers that sell plants. Many of these establishments do not use neonicotinoids on their plants that they grow. But the buyer should beware: they may sell plants that were grown previously at a different wholesaler which did use systemic pesticides. You should ask the growers at these establishments whether neonics were used on the plants you wish to purchase.

Neonicotinoids or ‘neonics’ are a systemic pesticides used on plants to kill insects. Unfortunately, these insecticides also harm pollinators as the insecticide gets into all parts of the plant including the pollen and nectar.

The only way to be sure a plant has not been treated with neonics is to buy certified organic seed and grow it yourself, or buy a certified organically grown plant.

More information here.

Goldman’s Greenhouse – East Bethel, MN

Website: Goldman's

MNL – Ecological restoration and native species landscaping, retail and whole sale seeds. Website: MNL

Norther Hollar – Specializes in growing native plants of the Midwest. Website: Northern Hollar

Outback Nursery – Hastings, MN

Seller of Minnesota native trees, shrubs and perennials.

Website: Outback

Prairie Moon Nursery – Winona, MN and order online

They have hundreds of varieties of native plant seeds, plants and bare root stock.

Website: Prairiemoon

Prairie Restorations – Scandia, MN