How to
Save Seeds
1.
Select open-pollinated (not hybrid/ F1) varieties of plants.
2.
Start with the easiest seeds to save: Peas, Beans, Tomatoes, Lettuce and Native
Plants.
3.
Grow your plants making sure they are not cross-pollinated with other varieties.
Select the healthiest plants to harvest seeds. If growing vegetables, also
select good tasting fruit with high yields. Don’t choose wonky looking plants
and select fruits from more than one plant if possible.
4.
Gather fruits or seed pods at the correct time. See details below.
5.
Dry seeds thoroughly. Store in paper envelopes or small clean jars in a dry,
cold location. A plastic or glass container in your refrigerator is a great
place to store seeds.
6.
Label, label, label! Include the date, location
and other notes about the plant, such as days to maturity or sun preference. You
will forget come springtime.
Peas and Beans
Allow
pods to ripen on the plants until they are dry and start turning brown. Peas and
beans must be completely ripe or they won’t germinate. This will take about a
month after harvesting the other peas/beans for eating. You can either strip
the pods from the plants or pull up the entire plants whole and spread them to
dry inside or other sheltered well-ventilated area for a couple of weeks. Shell
pods and store in paper envelopes or jars. Pea and bean seeds remain viable for
3 years.
Tomatoes
Allow
fruit to ripen fully and scoop out the seeds and pulp. Put the seeds and pulp
in a glass jar with some water. Let sit at room temperature for 2-4 days,
stirring once a day. Each day pour off the pulp and seeds that float to the
top. Viable seeds will sink to the bottom. After 4 days, remove the seeds at
the bottom, rinse thoroughly, drain and spread on newspaper or paper towels to
dry. Package in paper envelopes or jars. Tomato seeds remain viable for 4
years.
Lettuce
You
must allow the lettuce plant to bolt or grow a stalk which will make a flower
head with small yellow flowers. They eventually change to feathery white tufts
which contain black or white seeds. Lettuce seeds don’t ripen all at once, so
monitor the plants for a month or two. Each time you see some seeds turning
dark, shake the plant over a paper bag to catch the seeds. Dry indoors for a
week before storing. Lettuce seeds remain viable for 5 years.
Native Plants
Most
native plants produce a flower, which if pollinated, will make a seed head or
pod. Late in the fall or after a frost, collect the seed pods and allow to
thoroughly dry. Remove the seeds before storing. Many native plants, especially
milkweeds, attach a fluff bit to each seed to allow the seeds to disperse in
the wind. To remove this fluff put the opened seed pods in a bucket or
container with a lid. Add a couple of coins and close the lid and shake. The
shaking with the coins will remove the fluff from the seeds. After shaking, the
seeds will be at the bottom of the container.
Most
native seeds require a moist cold period of time called stratification before
they will germinate. The easiest way to grow these seeds is to plant them in
the fall and let them go through the winter where they will sprout in the
spring. Otherwise you will need to simulate winter by placing the seeds in
moist sand and storing in the refrigerator for a set number of days before
starting inside.
RESOURCES
University
of Minnesota Extension information - http://www.extension.umn.edu/garden/yard-garden/vegetables/saving-vegetable-seeds/
Seed
Savers Exchange – http://www.seedsavers.org/
Native
plant growing from Prairie Moon Nursery - https://www.prairiemoon.com/
Seed Sowing and
Saving
by Carole B. Turner
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